From Tokyo to Sendai

Is Sendai the Edinburgh of Japan?

When the British poet James Kirkup was persuaded to come to Japan as a visiting professor of Tohoku University, his new colleagues promised him that the northern city of Sendai was the Japanese equivalent of Edinburgh; presumably Tokyo was London. It's a nice line (and it worked on Kirkup, who loved the city)  but I wonder what they had in mind. Did they mean the proximity of the hills to the centre, the access to the sea bay, or the cultural status as the premier city of the north half of the map?
  Britain  and Japan, not only island nations off the coasts of continents, but two archipelagos that have had to identify themselves. Sendai, was never the capital of a kingdom, but has been the major city of the northern part of Honshu (the Tohoku region). Population, capital and influence has been steadily moving to the south (or, more accurately, the west) of the island and Tohoku can seem to be out on limb, all the more so as the development further north of Hokkaido, particularly Sapporo, has left this district looking quiet.  Moving here after some years in Tokyo requires some adjustment. Some Tokyo friends assume Tohoku is a backwater, and the city would be very cold. Colleagues in Sendai are generally very proud of the city, and its 'temperate' climate, and have tended to remain here out of choice. With a million people it is technically a big city (317th in the world apparently) but geographically it is compact, small even.  Over the years I have come to see Japanese cities as rather formulaic spaces in terms of urban planning, and there is much of Sendai that feels familiar: the shopping malls, the dozens of Starbucks, the city centre skyscrapers that still impress a former lo-rise British town dweller like me. On the other hand, the quiet spaces of the city are a great attraction: the forestation that reaches into the west side of the city and the Hirose river that winds around the centre. And I am convinced the air is better. It must be said that Tokyo's consumerist 'shock and awe' is in shorter supply here. Trips out to rural Miyagi and Iwate uncovered small towns with abandoned pachinko parlours and derelict drive-in centres, and even in Sendai the closure of some big hotels over the past six months is a reminder that Japan is an economy in trouble. I hope to write about this some time soon.